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Updates: Many topics are permanent, so may be updated to any material, for add or correct info.
Get more info: Since the beginning this site tryes to be a compilation center of the best sources for the JD800. Not a copy.
So please, visit the sites at the Links section for lots of much more very good information.

sexta-feira, 16 de agosto de 2013

White Keys Again



This is from "The Retr0bright Project".

By Merlin, of AmiBay, English Amiga Board and Vintage Computer Forums (among others)

How to deal with the “not-so-mellow yellow” of old computers and consoles

“The problem was finally cracked in late July 2008 with a mixture of hydrogen peroxide, a small amount of an “Oxy” laundry booster as a catalyst and a UV lamp; we believed that this could do the job in hours instead of days. Proof of this concept was demonstrated on EAB by Tonyyeb from Hull, UK, Chiark from Leeds, UK and myself. The original test I did as proof of concept took two hours, as opposed to up to the five days it took for the original tests at CBM and a1k.org. We were on to something!!

See the complete article at: retr0bright.wikispaces.com



Portuguese text: 

Coloque as teclas em água oxigenada + bicarbonato de sódio e deixe algumas horas no sol. De preferência cubra o recipiente com um plástico.


.'.


sexta-feira, 8 de março de 2013

One Fix for the Red Glue Problem

JD800 by Marcos Carrera from Taiwan.


This was posted by Shupac800 at the JD-800 Tech Group:



My Fix for the Red Glue Problem
Posted By: shupac800  Sat Aug 4, 2012 8:10 pm 
I posted this tutorial to Gearslutz.com last year and thought it might be
helpful to republish it here.

* * *

There are two kinds of JD-800 owners: those who have already experienced the
red glue of death, and those who are going to...

As we all know, the red glue that holds the key weights to the keys did not prove to be stable over a period of decades. When it gets old, and especially if the synth is kept someplace warm, the red glue softens and seeps out, making a God-awful mess.

The best way to fix this problem is to remove all the red glue, under the mildest conditions possible (NOT boiling water, as some have tried), and re-glue the weights into the keys. The keybed comes out better than new. Here's my technique.

Sodium hydroxide (NaOH, lye) solution works great to dissolve the red glue without harming the plastic. It is caustic, so WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES. Even dilute NaOH can permanently damage your eyes, and it's very likely your lye solution will be splashing about. If you get any of the solution on yourself, wash it off promptly with a lot of water.

The sodium hydroxide I like to use is granular NaOH, which I've bought on eBay. If you can get Red Devil lye or some other pelletized NaOH at your hardware store, that will work too, but the granular NaOH dissolves faster.

In a plastic bucket, mix 80 grams NaOH with 2 liters of water until all the NaOH is dissolved. (The bucket will get warm.) For you chemistry types, this recipe makes a 1-molar (1 mole/L) solution of sodium hydroxide.

Immerse the keys in the lye solution. You only need to soak the part with the glue on it, so don't worry if keys aren't completely bathed in the solution.

Leave the keys soaking in the solution for 18-24 hours. After this time, no traces of the red glue should remain, and the weights will simply fall out of the keys into the bucket.

Carefully pour the NaOH solution down the drain. Don't let the weights get poured down the drain too.

Rinse everything with a lot of water. Dry the weights as best you can. It's normal for a bit of rust-colored oxidation to form on them; don't worry about it.

At this point I soak the keys for another 24 hours in a bucket of soapy water. This bath helps eliminate the fishy odor left on the plastic by the reaction of the lye solution with the red glue.

When everything is dry and clean, re-glue the weights into the keys. I have had great results using a popsicle stick to apply a dab of 5-minute epoxy to each key. Make sure the weights are properly centered.

To remove any red goop that has seeped onto your chassis, I have found the best method is to blast the goo with freeze spray (available from Radio Shack or Fry's). Then, while the stuff is frozen hard and brittle, chip it off with a single-edged razor blade.

And that's it. Have fun.




Another fix by Daniel Forro at the same forum: 
(observe his comments about how reglue the key's weights)



My problems with red glue started few years ago after my moving from middle Europe to Japan - I think also because of high temperatures in the summer.

It's necessary to disassemble the instrument and keyboard, and leave the keys soaked in solution with NaOH (natrium hydroxide). I used a liquid for
cleaning sanitary pipes with 2% of NaOH, it's enough, but it was necessary to leave keys in it for about 2 or three days. I have used transparent plastic
cover from 50 pieces CD or DVD box, lot of keys can be inside in the same time soaked (and after finishing the job and washing box in water it can be
again used). Red glue is dissolved with it perfectly, dissappears, and metal weights still keep glued (mostly, just few fell out).

Then I cleaned the keys with water, and with isopropylalcohol from the rest of dissolved glue film and all dirtiness, and put standard universal common
liquid "white glue" (which changes color to transparent after drying, and is soluble and washable with water - I'm sure it can be purchased everywhere in the
world under different names) to fill and cover all holes around the weight, and weight itself - to avoid any possible future leakage of red glue which is
still under the weight. After drying this glue I had apply more of it on some spots where some air bubble made again holes. In the end I got perfect plastic cover
of metal weight. If I remember well, for black keys it was necessary to use more glue.

There's no problem since the repair.



.'.


Here is another topic about the Red Glue problem: Sorting Out Flats JD800 Sticky Key - Red Glue


sexta-feira, 31 de agosto de 2012

Playing the Gandalf

I don´t know if there is another Gandalf - The Roland JD-800 Custom White Synth.
It is really a nice white custom mod.
So, just see this:



.'.

segunda-feira, 6 de agosto de 2012

Memory Card Battery Replacement / cartridge

It is important to remember you cards / cartridge have an internal battery.

This is the former process for replacement.


All rights: @Roland Co.


Download the original PDF file from Roland US:  Roland_Memory_Card_Battery_Replacement.pdf





Memory Card Battery Replacement Instructions

The Roland M-512, M-256 and M-128 memory cards each have an internal battery.

If you need to replace the internal battery, please use the following images as a guide.


Be sure to use the specified battery (CR-2016) - This is a very popular type usually easy to find.




1)  Locate the battery tray and use your thumbnail or the blade of a small flat-head screwdriver to gently loosen the battery tray.



 2) Gently pull the battery tray completely out of the memory card.


 3) Make a note of which side of the battery is facing up so you can position the new battery correctly.


4) Take care not to touch the new battery with your bare fingers as this can shorten battery life.
 




.'.



quinta-feira, 24 de maio de 2012

Rick Wakeman with a JD-800 at stage


I´m looking to find some pictures/videos of Master Rick with his JD-800.

Here, Rick Wakeman in 2009, playing live in Lugano.

The Roland JD-800 is in the center on top of image. The Moog is just at left.

Image from the DVD 'CLASSICAL WAKEMAN'
Vol. 1- Live in Lugano

And here in another moment:

Master Rick Wakeman is an English keyboard player, composer, and songwriter
best known as the keyboardist for progressive rock group Yes.
Foto: StarCards


.'.



terça-feira, 8 de maio de 2012

JD-800 Aftertouch Modification


Use the full range of aftertouch without straining your fingers.


DISCLAIMER:
This is a Mod to the JD-800 circuit. Do it at your own risk.



Photo:
All JD-800 users knows we need to put a lot of pressure to use the aftertouch.

As someone sayd: one needs to stand on the keyboard to get an effect.



I took here the work of two great guys from the JD-800 Tech group. As I know, they had many messages about this work and here is the result with comments from both.

Preben Friis, synth lover an expert in electronics who explain how to do a simple mod to make the aftertouch become better, really light to play.

, a guy who have great merits and a lovely work and story.

From now, I merge material from both and something more, including one or two words of mine.




The Idea:

Preben:

In basic, just change how the circuit "feel" the input value.
A 270 kOhm resistor across R27 will make it possible to use full range of aftertouch without straining your fingers.

R27 position.
Photo:



Please read all the comments before doing anything you will repent! (LOL)




Researching:
I poked around with a multimeter on the aftertouch circuit today. The pressure
ribbon starts out at 150 kOhm and by full pressure it is around 1 kOhm...

Shunting the ribbon will make it possible to move the threshold to make it start

earlier but will not make it more sensitive.
Preben


CAUTION:

This is a modification you can do inside the JD if you are comfortable with a soldering iron that makes the aftertouch much more responsive.


This mod might require to unsolder a SMD resistor ... not something for people with ten thumbs.
For sure you can ask an electronics technician to perform this modification.


About opening the JD-800:

Removing all screws may do your internal components fall.
You must remove only the screws AROUND the bottom and two screws in the center line, they are at 1/4 from side, and may be you can see a few bigger hole where thy fit to.
Sometimes the bottom have some "dust" acting like glue to.
Photo:




How to remove the panel.
JD-800 Manual. (click to enlarge)
Source: Roland Co.



The Solution:

Preben:

Thanks to Gwydion Elderwyn I received exactly what I needed to calculate and test a better modification of the aftertouch circuit in the JD-800.
The short version: 
Change resistor R27 to 120 kOhm instead of 220 kOhm. Done.
The long version:
Since SMD components are very difficult to remove, and I did not have any SMD components at hand, I chose to solder a 270 kOhm resistor parallel with R27. 
R27 is located on the mainboard in the left corner right by the ribbon cable to the keyboard.
The picture shows my "huge" resistor piggyback on R27. It is not very pretty, but it works! 

Image by: Preben Friis

 
Actually the picture shows a 100k resistor, which was the first one I tried, but that made the aftertouch sensitivity too light. I could easily press the aftertouch from 0 to 127 with my pinkie finger. The 270k resistor is in my opinion the best value. If I use my pinkie with this value it allmost hurts to press it to max. Feel free to experiment - Reasonable values are in the range from 100k to about 1M
Find a soldering iron with a very thin tip and add a little solder to the two pads on R27 first. Then cut and bend the legs of the new resistor to fit across it and add a little solder blob to the legs of it. Hold the new resistor in position with a set of pliers and touch the iron to the legs of the resistor. This should melt both solder blobs to one and the connection is made. Repeat for the other side.
The smaller the better: 
A 1/8W resistor would be preferred over a 1/4W. 
Smaller resistors have thinner legs and that makes them easier to solder to the SMD resistor.
(Acutally I'm currently using a 1/2W resistor and it is BIG!).


The tolerance does not matter much. You can use 220k or 180k if you really want to use the full aftertouch range when playing monofonic lines.
 
An alternate idea:
Marc (also suggest using a trimmer instead of a fixed resistor:
What I'd like to do instead on this mod is replace the resistor by a lower value, cut the trace next to it and connect a 500Kohm trimmer pot with modding wire (26-28Awg) and have it adjustable. 
I imagine not every aftertouch ribbon has exactly the same value, so this would make it tweekable. Nice thing is if the value of the ribbon changes in time, all you have to do it open it up and adjust it a little. The fixed resistor is there as safeguard so the value doesnt go below a safe value and draws too much current.
Also, I would not connect a pot in parallel with the current value. The response of the pot would not be linear at all, and hard to adjust. 

Another mod using the same idea:

See that was placed a wire connecting the potentiometer (at left) to position R27 in the circuit board.
Foto: Yuri Alfons Peeters Charlotte

Remember to power off before you solder anything... 
If you connect the resistor properly without shorting anything there is no risk involved in this modification. The current in the pressure ribbon will be double from around 40 uA to 80 uA, but those currents are still very far from anything that can destroy any components.

I can tell you, that a well adjusted aftertouch is almost like getting a new synth. Many of the factory sounds is way more fun to play around with, when you can change the sound by a light pressure. 
For example, try for instance patch I-22, Classic Sweeper .. 
Thanks again Gwydion Elderwyn, I couldn't have done this without your help :-)
Have fun.

Preben Friis






The Circuit and the mods
























As we say here in Georgia, WEEEEEE HAAAAAA!

Thanks Preben!  This mod was easy and it works great!  I used the 270k and find the aftertouch to now be similar to my K2000.

Most excellent.  Kinda makes you wonder why Roland didn’t get it right in the first place.

Jim Combs
www.touchxtone.com


 

 .'.


domingo, 6 de maio de 2012

Sorting Out Flats JD800 Sticky Key - Red Glue

In the Harmony Central site, the Keys, Synths & Samples forum is the one of the best group about synths and synth players I have found.

From there is this great post about one of the famous problems of the JD-800: the sticky key, also know as the Red glue problem. .

Link to the original topic: ***Flats-JD800-Sticky-Key-Session-***



Topics created by Flat Earth - Vive La Synthesizer! You find him at www.gearslutz.com



***Flats JD800 Sticky Key Session ***

Heres a very quick guide to sorting out the infamous Roland JD800 'Sticky key problem'
As you are only allowed 10 images, I´m sorry if it is not too clear.




Remove the 8 screws located under the ‘ROLAND’ logo on the back of the JD800. then the 2 screws on the underside of the JD and the 3 screws at either ends (left image). The top facia of the synth will open up like a bonnet revealing the circuitry and keyboard (a strap on the left hand side prevents the lid/facia from falling back)





The keyboard can now be removed. Firstly, gently prize out the ribbon connector that connects the keyboard to the motherboard (left image). Using a side-to-side motion (don’t force it!), then unscrew the 6 gold screws running along the top of the keyboard chassis (right image), and the 5 screws underneath the synth (holding the keyboard steady)




The whole keyboard assembly should slide forward easily now. Before taking apart the keyboard, its best to lay it face down on a towel or soft cloth (keep a dish handy for small parts)

On the back of the metal keyboard chassis, there are 5 black strips securing each octave of the keys. Remove 1 strip and the one octave of keys at a time. A knife or flat screwdriver can be inserted under the strip to gently prise it off. (See above right)





After the strip has been removed, each key can be taken out by gently pushing it out. (After each key has been removed, take out each corresponding metal spring clip that is underneath the key, and put it somewhere safe. Put all the keys in order, upside down on a piece of board. (Right image)

At this point, you should be able to see the ‘Red glue’ that is causing the sticky key (red glue) problem.
I found in my case, all the problems seem to emanate from the glue leaking from the ‘black keys’. The glue had dripped down onto the damping strip & between the keys themselves. (see below)





The ‘Red glue’ can be cleaned easily from between the keys. The glue that has fouled the damping strip on the other hand (left image), has to be gently scraped off with a scalpel. I found some of the glue had been absorbed by the damping strip. I was able to cut it out, and then ‘fluff up’ the resulting hole. If the damping strip were too heavily saturated with glue, it would be a better idea to replace it (if Roland can still supply this).

Once all the glue has been cleaned away, it’s worth cleaning the contacts. Just remove the 5 grey rubber contact suspension mats and clean the whole strip with a light tissue doused in cleaning fluid. (Be careful removing these mats, as the small rubber securing cones can tear easily!)

The keyboard section can now be re-assembled and tested.

I found that putting a thin layer of hot glue over the ‘red glue’ in the black keys could prevent further leakage in the future. But not too much as to make the key too heavy.

Hope this is of use to anybody experiencing similar problems.
  
.'.

Additional comments from that topic and very useful info from the topic follow. (Edited)




Comment by Don Solaris - Certified Synth Maniac

Unfortunately, cleaning of damping strip from bottom side is not that easy. And the only solution (after you clear keys and before you put them back) is to take a small piece of Post-It paper and put it right over the glue. Glue will hold it, and key won't be sticky anymore.

Same can be applied to top side of damping strip as in many cases, the glue already penetrated it deep enough, that you can no longer cut it out with scalpel.





Comment by  MarkShovel2

I found it was essential to get the metal spring clips uniformally seated on each key. I had a few black keys that were stiff. I observed that the metal clips were not correctly seated into the top of the key. When correctly seated, everything is very uniform. The action now approaches my two V-Synths.




Comment by Flat Earth

Id thought of putting a small piece of thin plastic or paper over the saturated parts of the damping strip, but after gently cutting it out, i was able to 'fluff' it up, with a needle back to a pretty good state.




Comment by 4thtry

As in your case the black keys were causing the majority of the problem. I used a tube of silicon instead of hot glue to try and seal in the offending red glue. I had to be careful not to add too much or the little metal stopper with the rubber jacket would come in contact and add unwanted friction.




Comment by Flat Earth

when i inserted the hot glue, i had to be careful not to put too much in. I found a small blob either side of the weight did the trick. Used a small screw driver to spread it over the red glue, but you have to be quick, the hot glue sets quite quickly.

I didnt do the white keys btw. Even if they had 'leaked', they wouldnt cause any problems with the keybed mech as they arnt above it. I will be keeping an eye on them though.



Comment by Flat Earth

Update

After repairing the keyboard action (which now plays super smooth) i found I had a few dead notes. I thought the culprit may well be the rubber dome key contacts, so i took it apart again and made a note of which keys failed to play. I then swapped one of the 5 grey strips with another and checked to see if the key played. **BINGO** they worked. They rubber strip must have worn out. Its best to replace all 5, but remember, the 5th strip (top octave) is different to the lower 4 octave strips. It has 13 contacts rather then 12 like on the other lower octaves. Take this into account when ordering replacements. 




.'.

Another topic for the Red Glue problem is: One fix for red glue problem.


sábado, 5 de maio de 2012

Mac Logic Studio: a little Roland JD800 Environment


This is for the Mac users of the Logic Studio Pro.


I found this at www.logicprohelp.com forum posted by Virgo.


Roland JD800 Environment

Postby virgo » Mon Mar 26, 2012 4:13 am




As promised in this thread (click to see post), here`s my little JD800 environment.


I will probably add the FX section sometime.




Original download link:
JD_800_Makro2.zip 
JD800 Environment (590.51 KiB)


.'.

Note: Logic Studio Copyright © 2012 Apple Inc.



.'.

Article Quote: Jean-Michel Jarre's Comment

Not sure, at right top, appears to be the JD800 and a Nord.
Foto: Music and You



This is a quote from the great article: Synth-Aesthesia: Jean-Michel Jarre's Favorite Keys by Patrick Thévenin, published at site www.redbullmusicacademy.com.at 03.05.2012.


Jean-Michel Jarre speaks to French journalist Patrick Thévenin about ten of his favourite synthesizers.

(A very nice list)

E.M.S VCS 3 (1969)
ARP 2600 (1971)
ARP 2500 (1969)
FAIRLIGHT CMI (1979)
MEMORY MOOG (1982)
RMI Keyboard Computer (1974)
EMINENT 310 (1970)
Teenage Engineering OP-1 (2011)
MELLOTRON (1963)
       


Roland JD-800 (1991)
This was the next synth to follow the DX7 philosophy and the approach initiated by Japanese synths, which was going to financially sink all of the American makers. I included it in my list because it was one of the first polyphonic Japanese synths that managed to resemble an analogue synth, although what I hated about the DX7 was that it left you thinking that electronic music only aimed to imitate the sounds of acoustic instruments. With the JD-800, you could modify the sound, as you can on an ARP or a Moog, but with a Japanese sound quality, which in some respects, is more refined. I used this synth a lot on Chronology and Revolution. These are the albums which spoke to people the least, but which were important in my career as they marked a period of flux where I still had a foot in analogue and another in what would go on to become digital.


Jean-Michel Jarre

.'.

quarta-feira, 11 de abril de 2012

domingo, 8 de abril de 2012

Roland JD-800 JD-990 VST Patch Editor VST for CTRLR

JD-VST Patch Editor

(updated at november, 16, 2014)



Good news to the Roland JD-800 and JD-990 worldwide users!

Christian Morency just released a beta version of a VST Patch Editor for the Roland JDs. 

This is a dedicated panel for the CTRLR software. This could allow you to visually modify your patch and control your JDs from your DAW.

You can read more about and download at the CTRLR forum: http://ctrlr.org/forums/search/JD-vst/  

If you download CTRLR from the website, please use the Stable version

As a Beta Version the software still have some bugs.


And also, there's a great topic at  Gearslutz: JD800 / 990 VST editor

The page include links to download.


Few notes:
You need to free your computer midi ports on which the JD is connected for CTRLR and assign them to CTRLR in the global settings. Download the panel (it's currently at the bottom of the device database). Once open from CTRLR, right-click on the panel and assign the midi device to the panel.


Download link:http://ctrlr.org/panels_deprecated/


Youtube tutorials:


JD-VST Tutorial 1:


JD-VST Tutorial 2:


JD-VST Tutorial 3:

terça-feira, 21 de fevereiro de 2012

Great modifications and maintenance: Roland JD-800 "Restyling"

Great modification and fantastic result!

Efrem, from Italy have done many improvements inside that make the Roland JD-800 more robust and easy to maintenance.

A great video from a synth lover.

He turned the Roland JD-800 in a module, removed the keybed and improved it.



(Video updated in 21, June 2017)

Click the link to watch the video at Youtube:  Roland JD-800 _ Modifiche hardware



 










The video show all parts he serviced. Very good ideas.

Pay atention to details and you will be surprised. I comment only a few.

Well, he removed the damaged keybed. here in the blog you will see another modification such like this. 

The headphones output in front make it easier.

The joystick was placed apart and it is on a temporary support.

The plastic over the card place is a great idea. Protect against contact with the flat cable and prevent also agaist dust.

I say dust? Oh my god! He made a total cleanup! Dust inside is the great problem of the JDs. 

Another great idea was to improve heat dissipation in the power source. 
The connectors are no longer soldiers which greatly facilitates maintenance.

Love to see all that. Thanks Efrem, our congratulations! 


UPDATE: This one is an update from him but due restrictions you need to click at the Youtube link to see it. 



 See also:
.'.

    segunda-feira, 20 de fevereiro de 2012

    Roland JD-800 Demo - Live Pads Piano Strings Organ Bass Leads

    Some nice Roland JD-800 demos by VisceralVoids.

    Despiste the record quality sound not being so good, it is easy to feel the great sound this machine makes.

    Look the demo of interactive programming. User comment:
    At 4:40 this video shows a pad that you can create live using the JD-800's effects and sliders. I am using a Roland DP-2 footswitch to hold the chord down while I set the JD-800's phaser & delay. Then I change the cutoff and rez, and pitch with the "pitch coarse" knob. To get the "whoosing" effect you could set LFO1 on the filter. JD-800's resonance in full effect here but this is not using high settings. Other sounds in this video include crystal rhodes, strings, piano, PPG sounds, catherdral organ, of course basses and leads.


    sexta-feira, 10 de fevereiro de 2012

    Free CD - Music for Starry Nights - A work on the JD-800.





    This is our new CD:  Music For Starry Nights

    It was done by a sort of brazilian and european musicians.

    My music in this collection is "The Inner Side of Mirror". It was done using ONLY the Roland JD-800 without any external effect.

    It´s a nice demo of the great capabilities of this synth.



    Free Download: 
    http://music-for-starry-nights.bandcamp.com/

    .'. 

    segunda-feira, 30 de janeiro de 2012

    segunda-feira, 16 de janeiro de 2012

    One of The 10 greatest synthesizers of all time

    I found this article at MusicRadar, very nice comments:

    The 10 greatest synthesizers of all time

    The machines that changed music
    Scot Solida, Mon 26 Oct 2009, 12:14 pm UTC

    9. Roland JD-800


    It was a difficult decision, putting the JD-800 on the list in lieu of the massively popular D-50. The latter is arguably the classic between the two and represented a major shift in Roland's approach to instrument design and sales. Yet the JD-800 was, frankly, a far better instrument.
    Like the D-50, the JD combined sample-based oscillators with a fairly typical signal path that included a resonant filter, envelope generators and the like. However, the JD-800 offered something not available on any other sample-based synthesizer: a bucket load of sliders. Yep, the JD harkened back to the analogue era, offering scads of real-time control (that, alas, could only be transmitted via SysEx). It was big, impressive and utterly sexy, even if it was made mostly of plastic.
    More than that, it sounded out-of-this-world. At a time when manufacturers were doing their best to cram as many grainy 8-bit low-rate samples into an instruments' ROM as possible, Roland used only hi-res stuff, resulting in outstanding sound quality.
    Alas, the JD-800 was released a decade too soon. The analogue revival was still years off and sales fizzled (at least by D-50 standards). However, Roland knew what it had, and the technology behind the JD-800 would pop up again and again in its best-selling series of rack-mountable MIDI modules.

    * * *


    Thanks to MusicRadar nice people!


    * * *

    quarta-feira, 14 de dezembro de 2011

    An user review - control back to the player instead of the computer

    I found this interesting review at ihavesynth.com

    Original posted at: http://ihavesynth.com/review/roland-jd-800/roland-jd-800



    Review: Roland JD-800
    Posted by Synthattica on 10/10/2009

    LA area prog-rock keyboardist. Oberheim MC-3000, Ensoniq SQ2, Kurzweil K2000, Roland VSynth v2.0, Roland D-550, Waldorf MW XT, Novation Supernova Rack, OpenLabs Soundslate, G-Force impOSCar, Arturia V-Collection, Waldorf Largo, OP-XProII, Korg Legacy, NI FM8, B4II, Sampletank 2.5xl, Superwave P8.


    I'm going to go out on a limb and say the JD-800 is one of the greatest synthesizers Roland's ever produced.  Not because it is loaded with a ton of features, but because of it's sheer design that I wish Roland would take an opportunity to produce a new line of JD series synths.

    Just the LOOK of the JD-800 gives many keyboardists a "synth boner".  While constructed of molded plastic (metal side panels would have helped keep more of these around!), it's build could be described as a bit flimsy, but they were durable enough to be road worthy.

    It's the philosophy of this synth that I love so much.

    When the JD-800 arrived in 1992, people have had enough of analog (can you actually believe that?!?!?), and digital synthesizers were now all programmed with the idea that users would edit sounds using a computer, so real-time control was sacrificed.  The JD-800 was the first one to step in and say (you know what?  alpha dials suck!  So do tiny little LCD screens and silkscreened menus and graphs to guide you through the synths parameters."

    Before close examination, it looks like an 80's pop version of an analog synth, but it's anything but.

    What you get is a 26 voice ROM-based digital synthesizer.  The is ONE DCO that controls the sound source of a multitude of sampled waveforms.  After that, the rest of the programming is very familiar to analog synths, with multiple filter choices, envelope sections, dual LFO's, etc.  While this may not sound all that interesting, each sound layers up to 4 of these individual signal paths.  In this sense, the JD-800 becomes something like a super-charged D-50, except the joystick on the D-50 would be replaced with a mixer section.  Personally, I think joystick mixing would have been a better choice when they designed this synth.  It's sound is actually based on the D-50, though updated with better wave ROM.  While 26 voices was certainly a lot for 1992, keep in mind one voice each is used for each partial, so using all 4 partials limits you to a 6 voice instrument, plus two spare voices for whatever. At the end of the signal chain is an assortment of effects that are entirely LCD-menu driven, which makes them a little complicated to edit.

    The JD-800 is fully multi-timbral, and multi-mode is where you create your keyboard splits and complex layers.  I generally avoid multi use with this instrument since this synth is really created for thick pads and power-chords, and adding multi layers kills the polyphony.  Also in multi mode is where you'll find the drum section, an editable palatte of drum sounds, many of which became nearly as identifyable as the "digitalnativedance" patch from the D-50.

    While the JD-800 was packed with a multitude of usable sounds, Roland created a set of ROM cards that added more waveforms to work with, and come with a memory card to save your specific sound sets using those waveforms.

    If you're considering one of these boards, and I HIGHLY recommend them, you should know that there is NO sequencer or appegiator, this is strictly a performance synth.  I believe the panel controls transmit midi control parameters, though I've never used it in that fashion, so I'm not completely sure.

    The best uses for the JD-800: brass pads, warm strings, percussive sounds, pan flute type sounds, FX pads.  Drum sounds are usable.NOT good for: pianos, organs, acoustic instruments like upright basses and guitars.

    My personal recommendation: slave up a JP-8080, Wavestation, or D-50 to get some truly THICK Roland pads.

    Again, this synth doesn't have every bell and whistle, but you can see Roland's intent to replace their two legendary synthesizers: The Jupiter 8 (mostly in appearance and physical analog-style control) and the D-50 (in terms of sound).  What they wound up creating was a synthesizer that took sound control back to the player instead of the computer, and paved the road for the JV series of instruments, that would evolve into the XV series, then ultimately the Fantom series.

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    quinta-feira, 14 de abril de 2011

    An Collector Item

    I found this Roland JD-800 at RolandClans:


    Forum member, synth-owner say:

    Hedegaard:

    "I purchased it new in 1994 and have the brochure, card brochure, all manuals and all the cards except Accordion card. All cards bought from new back in the day, except strings card which I got off E-bay."

    It´s really a nice synth collection.

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